The End and the Beginning

| June 25, 2010

And, that’s it for Peace Corps. I’m still going to be writing at this address, but when I get back from Costa Rica, I’m going to archive all my Peace Corps related stuff at a different address, redesign and re-title my blog, and start new(ish). Someone once told me it annoyed her when RPCVs kept [...]

Changes Peace Corps Hath Wrought

| June 25, 2010

Malawi has made me . . .. indecisive. I mean, I had occasional (frequent) problems making a decision before, but in Malawi you can make as many decisions as you want, and they rarely have any effect on the end outcome. Which is not to say there’s no point to making decisions; but, if you’re [...]

20-21 October 2009: Essaouira

| June 24, 2010

Essaouira is a great town. The medina area is old white stone, with blue blue skies and splashes of color from all the vendors selling souvenirs and fabric and jewelry and spices and fresh juice. It looks like it could be the less elegant cousin-town to the Greek towns that are always in the movies. [...]

18-20 October 2009: Marrakesh

| June 24, 2010

The trip with the Americans was complicated, but not actually very interesting. It took two half-days of travel (actually what I was trying to avoid; the timing of it all just didn’t match up well on public transport), but I finally arrived in Marrakesh. Navigating the warrens of the Medina was a bit crazy-making, and [...]

15-17 October 2009: Merzouga and the Sahara

| June 22, 2010

Merzouga was just what I needed. I arrived around 5 or 6 in the morning, after chatting in stilted English much of the way with a Moroccan who had been in Fez for a guide job. The guy at Auberge Mohayut was incredibly helpful; when I decided I wanted to do the camel trek the [...]

12-14 October 2009: Fes

| June 21, 2010

I don’t really have much to say about Morocco. The feeling of wanting to be done with traveling ebbed and flowed, but had not passed. When confronted with the very different culture of Morocco, that feeling only intensified. Which is not to say that I didn’t enjoy Morocco. I did. But, for the first time [...]

11 October 2009: Kampala-Cairo-Casablanca

| June 21, 2010

It was weird to think that in the course of one day I was in three countries, and not in the hanging out in the airport sense, either. Driving through Kampala at 2:30 in the morning, I was surprised to see people on the streets, tomatoes and oranges heaped up on maize sacks, women in [...]

8 October 2009: Chimp Trekking

| June 18, 2010

A Ugandan man at Chimp’s Nest stopped me and asked me if I was going chimp tracking. I said hopefully, and he offered me a lift. His name was Charles, and he was tour guiding for two Italian women, one of whom lived in Kampala with her husband and the other of whom spoke no [...]

7 October 2009: Travel to Kibale

| June 18, 2010

I left Lake Bunyonyi at 7 in the morning. I could have caught the midnight bus, and in retrospect I wished I had, as my trek involved a motorboat to the shore, a taxi to Kabale, driving around waiting for the minibus to fill for about an hour before heading to Mbarara, the sweet taxi/minibus [...]

4-6 October 2009: Lake Bunyonyi

| June 17, 2010

I headed to Lake Bunyonyi on a bus that went straight through to Kabale, where I caught a short taxi and then the boat to Byoona Amagara. The bus ride was a bit cramped, but not too bad—I had my own seat and played a little with the kid next to me. When I got [...]

29 September-3 October 2009

| June 16, 2010

Kampala is bigger than Lilongwe, and in better repair, at least in the center. Although it definitely felt like an African city (unlike, say, Maputo or Cape Town), it just felt more vast than anything in Malawi. It also has marabou storks, which I hate, a little bit because they are frigging huge and ugly [...]

27 September 2009: Lalibela—The Churches

| June 15, 2010

We went back to the hotel so I could catch breakfast and to pick mom, who was feeling much better after more sleep. I had what seems to be the traditional Ethiopian breakfast: bread with creamed fresh honey in Hello Kitty-ish plates and coffee (ok, the Hello Kitty may not be traditional). I had decided [...]

27 September 2009: Lalibela: Meskel Festival And More

| June 15, 2010

Mom didn’t feel like going to see the actual festival in the morning. She wasn’t totally recovered from getting sick earlier in the trip (what with the go go go pace) and we both were a bit tired of the preferential treatment and especially of all the religious stuff. Eventually, after many longing looks at [...]

26 September 2009: Lalibela

| June 14, 2010

At the Lalibela airport, I was once again surprised at the ornateness, suburban-Ethiopian style. We had a new problem in Lalibela: a taxi and two guides waiting for us. Apparently there was a guide convention in Addis, because the guide Nebil had arranged for Lalibela was there, too. But he had sent a replacement, and [...]

26 September 2009: Axum Mihilela Procession

| June 14, 2010

We got up and threw on clothes we had set aside the night before. I brought my shama, just in case. Michael was was waiting for us in one of the blue rickshaw-like vehicles that are so common, noisy, and pollute-y in Ethiopia*. We drove through the pre-dawn streets, which were only slightly illuminated by [...]