Leaving Ilha

| May 17, 2010

Part of my reluctance to leave Ilha was the sheer work involved in traveling in Mozambique. It’s really not that bad, as far as traveling in Africa goes, but the distances are long, and I was spoiled by the fact that my two most common trips in Malawi were one and a half(ish) or four(ish) [...]

Meeting Kids in Ilha

| May 5, 2010

I didn’t find many people to talk to in my wandering. John, over and over again, as accidentally we ate together at least once a day, and some Peace Corps Volunteers at one point (also, the French couple that had upped the azungu quotient of our minibus too much on the way over, but with [...]

Ilha de Mozambique is a vortex

| May 4, 2010

I’m still not quite sure how I spent so much time in Ilha de Mozambique. Each day passes slowly and quickly at the same time. Days start to take on a gauzy, amorphous quality, ebbing and flowing with the tide. It seemed a shame to miss the sunrise, even though it occurred even more horribly [...]

Who Knew Crabs Like to Surf?

| January 25, 2010

17 August Javier, Beatrix (the Spanish students), and I ended up not going to an island because while I was busy trying out the homemade ice cream (mmm, cashew) and running into John in random places, (like ya do in a tiny town), they had been out bargaining and comparing deals and that kind of [...]

16 August: Ilha de Mozambique

| January 23, 2010

I walked from the hotel in Nampula, in search of the minibus going to Ilha de Mozambique. This was made difficult by the minibus stand being in a completely different place than what my map said, and necessitated stopping to ask some construction guys (not actually doing any construction) for instructions. When I got to [...]

Sticks and String

| September 30, 2009

In knitting we say, “It’s only sticks and string” to indicate to newbies that it’s all manageable. Well sailing a dhow only uses sticks and strings, too, but it’s far more impressive. Out on a dhow, watching how it is manoeuvred, I couldn’t help but think that my grandpa would love to see how it [...]